11 Days in India

In March 2018 we fell in love with India. We heard that people who visit India end up either loving it or hating it, which made us a little reluctant to go. But we are so glad that we did, as it was a marvelous experience. Below is the schedule and logistical info that helped us prepare, along with some things we wish we knew.

Logistics:

E-Visa info: https://indianvisaonline.gov.in/evisa/tvoa.html - apply 120 prior to arrival. You will need 1 digital picture with white background, passport page photo, and $75/person + 2.5% cc charge. 

Train Ticket Booking: www.cleartrip.com- from 1:30am-11:30pm (India time) only.

Driver and Guide Services: We got a recommendation for Mr. Yogi from friends and reserved everything through him. It was a great experience and he was wonderful. Our trip for 3 persons, to include car/driver, English speaking guides for each location we visited, tickets in every city for monuments, Udaipur boat ride and Amber Fort Elephant ride cost app. 75,000 rupees (at that time app. $1,150). You can contact him at driveindiabyyogi0@gmail.com or through www.driveindiabyyogi.com.

Advice:

1. Hire a driver and have them organize as much as they can: Highly recommend having a driver at all times and someone who can schedule things ahead of time/move things around. We felt much safer having someone wait for us and take us from place to place. Since it was so hot all the time, it felt great to go into a car with an A/C after spending hours touring city palaces.

2. Bollywood Dance Class: Highlight of our trip- it gives you something unusual to do, more fun than just regular sightseeing.

3. Walking Tour: In our case it was Jodhpur by Foot Tour- something that takes you to non-touristy parts of the city where you can get a better grasp of the life of ordinary people.

4. Listen to your guides restaurant recommendations: we always ate where they took us for lunch and never got sick (we were careful though with food selection). Food was always good.

5. Udaipur and Taj Mahal - if there are only two things you can visit in India, these were our favorites. We loved Jaipur as well, and Jodhpur too, but Udaipur and Taj Mahal are not to be missed.

6. Train Ride - even if you have a driver take you everywhere, this experience should not be missed.

7. Leave super, super, super early for Taj Mahal. We left an hour before they opened, and the line was already long.

8. Don’t expect fast internet service - we were surprised how slow it was in all of our hotels (and restaurants).

9. No need to stay three days in Jaipur.

10. If you pressed for time in Udaipur you can skip Monsoon Temple. If you have enough time, it is worth visiting.

11. Don’t leave sari shopping for the last minute as it will stressful and you will probably overpay. If you insist on wearing sari for Taj Mahal photos, order it beforehand online or don’t go to Agra at the beginning of your trip.

Itinerary:

Day 1 - New Delhi

Arrived in New Delhi after midnight. We stayed at The Park Hotel, 15 Parliament Street, Connaught Place. Since we were three, we asked for a rollaway bed- it was free of charge. Hotel Transport from airport for 2360 rupees (at that time app$37).  Our driver/trip organizer Yogi picked us up at 11. That day we visited Jama Jasjid Mosque and the Red Fort. On our to-do list was to purchase Sari before going to Taj Mahal, and Mr. Yogi took us to a store. We bough a lovely red one for app. $50. 

Day 2 - New Delhi then train to Agra

We spent almost all day in New Delhi, leaving in the afternoon for Agra. This was our favorite New Delhi day- we first visited the Jantar Mantarright next to our hotel. Then we took a Bollywood Dance Class at Delhi Dance Academy (WhatsApp +91 8377053325). The cost is app. $45 per person with costumes, with video links at the end of the final performance (worth every penny). Next was Emperor Humayun Tomb, and then Hazrat Nizamuddin Train Station to catch Nzm Jbp Superfast Express 22182 train to Agra. Mr. Yogi found us a porter and made sure we boarded the correct train to Agra. In Agra we stayed at ITC Mughal Hotel. 

Day 3 - Agra

Taj Mahal (closed on Fridays)- left hotel well before the sunrise, there was a still a long line to get in. Afterwards Agra Fort which was lovely, and then one of the best meals we had in India- Bon Barbecue Agra. For sunset we went to Mahtab Bagh Garden for a view of Taj Mahal across the Yamuna River. 

Day 4 - Drive to Jaipur

Left really early for a fun roadtrip. First stop was Fatehpur Sikri (part of it was closed because of a holiday and annual pilgrimage), then Chat Baori (they don’t allow you to go down the famous Stepwell). The highlight was the visit to Royal Gaitor (aka Monkey Temple) where we had an amazing guide who guided us how to safely interact with monkeys. Arrived in the evening at Umaid Bhawan - Heritage Style Hotel. 

Day 5 - Jaipur

First stop was the Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds) for photo opportunity (that is the pink building on all photos of Jaipur), then the beautiful City Palace, followed by the Astronomical Observatory (Jantar Mantar). In the afternoon we visited elephant sanctuary Elephanjoy before heading out to Nahargarh Fort to watch the sunset. 

Day 6 - Jaipur

Started early at Amber Fort with an elephant ride to the top, then drove to Patika Gate for a photo shoot. Afterwards visited Gatore Ki Chhatriyan (traditional burial grounds for Jaipur’s royal family- aka Royal Gaitor), and Panna Meena ka Kund (beautiful XVI century Stepwell where the guard let us go down the stairs). On our last night in Jaipur we ate at dinner at the amazing Peacock Restaurant, on the roof top of Pearl Palace Hotel. 

Day 7 - Flight to Udaipur

We flew with Spice Jet, the flight was delayed for few hours, but they had ping pong table at the airport which made the wait more fun. The (new) driver picked us up at Udaipur airport and took us to Jagat Niwas Hotel Palace. The hotel has an amazing view of the lake and is great for photos shoots, but it was the most expensive accommodation we paid in India and not worth the price.  In the afternoon we went to the Monsoon Palace.

Day 8 - Udaipur 

Started super early with photoshoot in the hotel. Then visited Jagdish Temple (beautiful carvings), and then the City Palace, from where we took a boat ride to Jagmandir, a small island near by in the middle of Lake Pichola. The boat ride is lovely, the island not that interesting. For sunset- Ambrai Ghat vista point (wait until City Palace is lit). Dinner at Ambrai Restaurant on the Lake Pichola was a perfect way to say goodbye to Udaipur.

Day 9 - Drive to Jodhpur 

Interesting ride where we had encounter with lots of (angry) monkeys and observed trees full of bats who were very active during the day. Stopped along the way at Jain Temple at Ranakpur. In the afternoon arrived at the Almond Tree Hotel,  a cute B&B where they made us wonderful dinner at their rooftop with a lovely view of the Umaid Bhawan Palace.

Day 10 - Jodhpur

Started with a visit to Jaswant Thada (royal cenotaphs), then Mehrangarh Fort ( informative western-style museum , interactive and fun for kids- with a gift shop!). Following the museum we went to the Clock Tower (good to take pictures) and Sadar Bazar (spice shopping). 

Day 11 - Jodhpur and Flight to Delhi 

In the morning, before our flight, we organized through our hotel Jodhpur by Foot Tour. This great walking tour took us to streets and temples that are not touristy. Flew Air India to Delhi and stayed near the airport (Four Points by Sheraton New Delhi, Airport) for an early flight home.

Getting to Machu Picchu by train

Travel Guide to Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu is one of the most iconic archeological site in the World, and most visited tourist destination in Peru. This isolated and remote citadel is located in on 2430 m (8,000 ft) in Andes Mountain range, approx 80km (50 miles) from Cuzco, a former Inca Capitol.

Due to it’s remote location, there are only 2 ways to get to Machu Picchu, by train or by foot via Inca Trail. We decided the take most common way, by rail. The train to Agua Calientes (small town just below Machu Picchu) is very popular way for visitors, so purchasing all the tickets (train, bus and entrance) in advance is highly recommended. We stayed in Cuzco, so the closest train station is Poroy, some 25 min car ride ($10-15) from downtown, but train also stops in Ollantaytambo before arriving to Machu Picchu.

The train pickets can be purchased online at www.perurail.com (purchasing in advance is highly recommended). Once purchased, you will need to pick up your tickets (with seat assignment) at the Lima or Cuzco airports (look for Official Peru Rail ticket booth) or at the train stations. This step is mandatory to board the train. Make sure you have you passport with you. The train prices very but the most common one and least expensive is Expedition train with return price of $94 (arriving to Aguascalientes at 10am and departing at 3:00pm). These prices are as of December 2019, and may very during the busy season.

The citadel entrance ticket ($45) can be purchased online at www.machupicchu.gob.pe You can choose the time of the entrance, so make sure you have the train tickets first. The entrance is limited to number of visitors entering per hour. Make sure you bring your passport. The passport is needed to board the train, bus and citadel. For those adventurous types, there is an option of hiking Huayna Picchu but for that staying overnight in Aguas Calientes is needed. You can also visit the Machu Picchu museum if you have time before returning the Cuzco.

Once in Agua Calientes, you will take the bus to citadel at the time assigned for your Machu Picchu entrance. The bus tickets ($24) can be purchased at the ticket office located in Av. Hermanos Ayar S/N, or in Cuzco. We bought our bus tickets in Cuzco’s Interbank (Av El Sol) for $24. This is a bank, so the process is bit timely but doable. If you have a time to hike you can get to the entrance by foot for a approx an hour climbing some 400m meters.

Rain is very common at the mountain top, so bring waterproof gear or buy a rain poncho at local vendor in Aguas Calientes. The citadel offers few cool hikes, like Temple of the Sun, Inca Brigde and climb to Huayna Picchu. Make sure you have enough time to explore as this amazing site offers great photo ops.

After hours of exploring, we highly recommend Toto’s House restaurant in Aguas Calientes. It’s located right across the Machu Picchu bus drop off station. The food is amazing and restaurant has some amazing views of Urubamba River. The train station is just few minutes away, via Mercado Artesanal where you can buys some last minute souvenirs.

For any hotel info, check the booking.com listings below

Booking.com

The Holy Trinity of Art, Religion and Wine -- One Day Excursion from Belgrade

So you have seen the museums, tried all local restaurants, in the summer went to Ada Ciganlija every single day, but you are kind of bored of it by now? It is a perfect time to do a short excursions from Belgrade where you can see and experience something new, and still be back in Belgrade in time to hit your favorite night clubs..

Travel Adventure Gurus and BTA Travel Agency have partnered up to offer you some of the best day time excursions from Belgrade.  The first one we propose is a one day visit to the Museum of Sava Sumanovic in Sid (pronounced Sheed), followed by the visit to Monastery Sisevac, ending with wine tasting at the Erdevik winery. We are organizing the transportation so you don't have to worry about driving after all that fabulous wine. 

We did this tour in April 2018, leaving Belgrade around 8am. Sid is approximately 1.5 hours from Belgrade so we were at the Sava Sumanovic Museum by 10am. This museum/gallery is perfect size and we were met by the guide who told us interesting information not only about the painter himself  but also about his style, different influences, how he went from the nudes to scenery, etc. The museum also has a wonderful gift shop where you can buy excellent oil reproductions of some of his paintings, ranging from $25-$100. In addition to this gallery, one can visit Sumanovic's family house and another museum featuring local naive painters. 

Following the art gallery we went to Monastery Sisatovac (Shee-sha-tovatz), a lovely little monastery dating back to the 16th century. This monastery also has a winery with a very clever name- Chichateu. We tried a lovely dry rose (Pink Punk) as an aperitif before heading out to Erdevik winery for some food and more wine tasting. 

Our last stop was the Erdevik Winery where we had the chance to tour the winery and also do some wonderful wine tasting. We saw the current production line, and also visited the old cellar with wonderful big barrels that nowadays mainly serve to highlight the interesting history of this place. The wine tasting included samples of white wine, rose, and red wine, and was accompanied by a delicious lunch. You can also ask for just a charcuterie and/or cheese plate. As for the wines we tasted, we loved Bella Novela and Omnibus Lector the most, and each of us bought few bottles that are now waiting for a special occasion.  

How to get to XiTang from Shanghai

XiTang, an ancient water town in Zhejiang Province, is a charming canal town that is perfect to spent a day strolling down narrow streets and crossing thousand year old bridges. XiTang is located in Jiaxing City, 2 hours away from Shanghai and there are many tours operators that offer 1/2 and whole day tours to visit this amazing place. Ranging from $110-$150 per person these private tours will take you to a journey back in time to explore canals, bridges and ancient architecture of "Venice of the East". 

However, for more adventurous and budget travelers there is a way to explore this amazing place all on your own. Xitang is located in Zhejiang Province and the best and most interesting way to get there is by high-speed train and bus. 

The main train station is Shanghai Hongqiao Railroad Station located on Subway lines 2 (green) and 10 (purple). The subway ticket to Hongqiao Station is usually 4CNY from Shanghai downtown, and ticket can be purchased from many automated ticket dispensers.

As soon as you exit the subway, go to the ticket booth on the same level and purchase the high-speed train ticket for Jiashannan Station 嘉善南站 (G trains). The cost is 29.5CNY one way, and the trains are very frequent. Make sure you have your passport with you as they will not issue the ticket without and photo ID. Also, they will not accept major Credit Cards so have enough cash to buy the ticket. TIP: it's highly advisable to have the final destination written in Chinese characters. (Jiashan South Station - 嘉善南站) It helps!!!

Once you buy the train ticket, it will take you 15min to get to the actual platform from where the trains are departing. This is a giant train station with 30 train platforms with A and B entrances. A entrance is for cars 1-8 and B entrance is for cars 9-15. Display above will announce the current train boarding so no need to wait in line till your train is on top of the list. There are few Tourist Info booths located at the terminal, where you can some info regarding the trains. 

The train ride is about 25 min and the first stop is Jiashannan (Jiashannan South Station) from where you will take the shuttle bus to XiTang Water Town. Once you exit the train terminal, walk right, al the way to the bus station from where you will take 30 min shuttle ride (with XiTnag pics on it). For 8CNY per person this shuttle will take you directly to the XiTang Entrance. 

The Entrance to XiTang is 100CNY cash. Make sure you have cash as no VISA/MasterCard/AMEX cards are accepted at the ticket booth. It's very difficult to exchange foreign currency at local banks due to a local laws. 

Top 10 Things To Do in DC

The capital of the United States of America has everything a traveler can ask for. Not only does it have great monuments and free museums, but there are so many activities one can do here. Whether you are coming from outside DC, or if you need to go from U Street to Dupont, your best mode of transportation is...the Metro! If you are not in the hurry please avoid the rush hour, and don't forget to walk up/down the escalators on your left, and stand on your right. There is nothing more the locals hate than tourists who block the escalators by standing on the left side. 

Washington DC is a great city, I see it like New York but less chaotic in a sense. You can come here in the winter, spring, summer or even fall, and it will still be just as good. 

1. The White House- Obviously, this should be the first thing you do when you come to DC. The White House is truly magical, and it's exciting knowing that the president might be inside watching some TV. Although, you can't really get a closeup from the outside as each year the barrier seems to expand. Still if you submit the tour request  through your member of Congress,  you can visit the inside the White House itself!

2. The Capitol-  It is a bit of a walk from the White House, but the Capitol is yet another iconic part of Washington DC. General negative attitude to members of Congress on both sides of the aisle makes the Capitol mainly good for memorable photo shoots.

3. National Gallery of Art- all museums are free, which is awesome because when we were in New York we were quite confused why the MOMA cost money.  This is our favorite art museum because of the wonderful selection of Impressionists paintings. The exterior of the National Gallery is pretty cool too if you like to take pictures like me:)

4. Washington Monument- This probably should've been listed as 3, but honestly, once you walk onto the National Mall, you have both the Capitol and the Monument in sight, and all the museums are right there. Also perfect for pictures. One of the best views/pictures opportunities is from the magnificent World War II Memorial. 

5. Paddle boating in the Tidal Basin- this is a must when in DC. If you don't want to walk all the way to Jefferson Memorial, you can just see it from the boat. There are plenty of boats, an one hour rental is perfect. My friend and I were stuck paddling while my mom set in the back and kept instructing us and telling us we were going the wrong way. But hey, it was a great leg workout! 

6. Go to a coffee shop- There are so many coffee shops here, and when it's winter in DC, all we do is enter one and get a latte and then walk a few more blocks to the next one. We usually go to Paul's because they have the best coffee and great pastries. 

7. National Portrait Gallery of Art - This gallery is our go-to place when we don't know what we want to do. There is always some new exhibit,  has so many interesting portraits and sculptures, so we consider this a must visit place. Plus it is far from all other museums on the mall, but it is still free, and is near all the restaurants and coffee shops. And it closes very late, at 7pm, so you finish your cultural adventure here before going to dinner. 

8. Walk around Georgetown- Georgetown is part of D.C. that is not too metro friendly, so it is not as easy to get here. But when the weather is nice it is a nice walk from Foggy Bottom metro station, or you can drive or take a taxi or uber. It's filled with so many cute cafes, restaurants and boutiques, and there isn't a lot of walking involved. For me Georgetown is window-shopping, taking pictures and ice cream. 

9. Library of Congress- for the library of Congress you have to buy tickets, but it is totally worth it. We took a free tour and learned so much. We were absolutely stunned by the detail and carvings that are there, and of course loved the Gutenberg Bible.

10. Botanical Garden- last but not least, the Botanical Garden. This garden is right next to the capitol, so when you are there you can just stop by for a quick peak. I'm a plant lover, so I was immediately in love with the Botanical Gardens, and try to visit them on my travels too. It is a great break from all the building/museum sight-seeing.  

Skiing at Liberty Mountain Resort

After 5 years, I was finally able to find the time (and the motivation) to go skiing again. I went up to Liberty Mountain Resort with a couple friends and they all snowboard, except me. 

I decided to take the Learn to Ski Package, since my ability was pretty limited. This package gives you a lesson in skiing, gives access to two lifts and two slopes, and allows you to rent their equipment if you don't have any, all for $108. 

After the lesson, I slowly remembered how to ski and I got the hang of it pretty quickly. Soon enough I was bored with the only two slopes, so I decided to pay another $22 to get access to the third lift that had access to 4 more slopes.

I only went on the green ones, but my friends decided to go on a blue one, which simply glanced at and immediately said no. I wasn't that skilled. I decided to share one of my rougher moments while skiing, because it's quite amusing, and just to show even though I was able to crash into the net, I still had an amazing time! 

Sunsets at the Burj Al Arab

After debating where we should go to get some sunset shots in Dubai, we decided on going to  the Jumeirah Public Beach, since we went there the day before during the day time. 

We were here for a while, and went towards the end of the beach to climb on some rocks, so we can get a full picture by the beach. We sang, danced, and even ran knee deep int the water. It was so carefree and peaceful, because there weren't too many people at the beach. 

I really wish we had some blankets so we could've had a picnic! Definitely on my bucket list for next time:)

Dubai - November 2017 Trip Schedule

Logistics:  Accommodation through AirBnB near Mall of Emirates, can highly recommend Antoun as the host.  Visa: Issued at airport - no fee, passport min 6 months valid. Transportation through SIXT Car rental. Driving is not complicated in Dubai if you set aside enough time to get lost. Still better than taking taxi/metro everywhere, plus is great for a day trip to Abu Dhabi. There is plenty of parking, usually free.         

Day 1

Drive to Dubai Mall. Leave enough time to get lost. Parking is free of charge at Section M of Level 1 inside of the Cinema car parking garage at the lower ground level of the Dubai Mall and you can leave your car there all day. 

Burj Al Khalifa (price: $37 per ticket). Best deal we found was through the
official site.   We reserved the 9:30am slot, and would highly recommend not getting there later than this.  All the research we did, including speaking to those who live there said that there was no need to pay significantly higher price  ($100 more per person) to go to the 148th floor. Going up to the 125th floor is really enough and the view is awesome. The trick is to come as early as possible to avoid the crowds.

Spice Souk and Gold Souk and the Boat Ride - We took a taxi from Dubai Mall to the Textile Souk (app. $25 per car). Then we took the little boat (abra) from Dubai Old Souk Marine Transport Station across the Dubai Creek (1 durham, best deal ever). The souk is something everyone should experience, even though you don't have anything on your shopping list.

On your way back across the creek you will see a wonderful restaurant on water- Bait Al Wakeel – we had lunch there and enjoyed excellent food and looking at all the abras that go back and forth. 

Afternoon was reserved for a short visit to the Dubai Museum Fahidi Fort (Hours 9:00-16:30; Tickets 3 Dirham). This small museum gives you a glimpse of Dubai's history and how people used to live in these harsh desert conditions- one hour here is enough. 

To go back to the Dubai Mall to get our car and watch the sunset and the water show, we rode the  Dubai Metro. Nearest metro station to Dubai Museum is the Al Fahidi Metro Station an when there you an ask for directions.  We ended our first day with the beautiful sunset in front of Burj Khalifa at the Square Al Bahar and the Water Fountain Show which starts at 6pm. It is not Bellagio in Las Vegas, but it is still nice. 

DAY 2
Get up early for the Burj Al Arab Photo Shoot at the Umm Suqeim Public Beach. It was still warm enough to swim at the end of November so we didn't spend our morning just striking poses. 

After some beach time, we went to see Madinat Jumeirah. This is a hotel resort open to public which is built in style of old Arabian towns. There is a souk (bazar), restaurants, and wonderful view of the Burj Al Arab. Great place to grab lunch with friends. There is also parking for 10 dirham at the garage.  As you enter the garage, there is a ramp on your left that takes you to the lower level, so don't worry if you don't find the spot right away on the upper level. 

In the late afternoon we did the inevitable  Desert Safari with the Desert Safari Luxury Tour - The tour was app. $22 per person through Groupon and communication about where to meet is best done through WhatsApp. The tour includes  Dune Bashing; Camel Ride if time permits (pay extra); time for Sunset Photo Shoot in Desert ; and Dinner & Show. You can also pay extra to smoke Houka (akaNargila or Sheesha)- for app. $14 they will bring it to your table. By the time we made it back to our apartment it was already almost 10pm. 

DAY 3 (Abu Dhabi Day)

One of the perks of renting a car is being able to drive where you want, when you want and visit to Abu Dhabi becomes easy to organize. We started our day with a visit to the magnificent Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque (guided tours at 10a,11a, 2p, 5p,7p). Address is Sheikh Rashid Bin Saeed Street, 5th St, Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirate. Plenty Free Parking. They will give you something to cover yourself. It is closed on Friday mornings for tourists so plan accordingly. 

We tried to get to the Emirates Palace (West End Corniche, Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates +971 2 690 9000), the fancy hotel with ATM where you can buy Gold, but someone in our group (not to be named, but the only guy), was wearing shorts, and they will not let you in the hotel compound if dressed inappropriately, which cargo shorts apparently is. 

So, instead, we went straight to the Louvre Abu Dhabi.  Buy the tickets (app. $20 per person) online to avoid the long queues. This is an amazing museum not to be missed. It gives a great overview of the history of various civilizations, and nicely compares East and West historic and artistic development through history.

DAY 4
Leave early for the Miracle Garden which opens at 9am. The address is Al Barsha South 3, Barsha,Dubailand Area, +971 4 422 8902. Tickets are 40 dirhams ($11), no need to buy onlilne if you come early. Free Parking. The best photo shoot location in the city, so dress romantically. 

Afterwards we went to Dubai Marina. Parking was a little tricky, at the end we found affordable parking at JBR Murjan GreenParking for app. $3 per hour.  We rode the Ferry Ride to the Atlantis and back. This was least impressive part of our trip. What was nice was grabbing drinks at sunset at the Pier 7 . There is a restaurant/bar on each floor, but for afternoon drinks the only place open that early was the Cargo Restaurant. Wonderfully relaxing. 

The last thing we did in Dubai before heading to the airport around 11pm was visit the Mall of Emirates (parking is free) so that we can see the famous skiing in middle of the desert. We got dessert at the TGIF Restaurant (I know, I know, but the view is great), and watched through the window people skiing and snowboarding on the Ski Dubai slopes. Surreal. 

All in all, we loved the United Arab Emirates, and would love to go back for some more desert fun and some night life. This time around as we were waking up very early to avoid the crowds, we didn't really experience the famous Dubai party scene. Next time.